The fashion world buzzed after Chemena Kamali’s debut collection for Chloé, a captivating blend of boho chic. We eagerly awaited which lucky celebrities would be seen sporting the coveted It-brand straight from the runway. Zoe Saldaña graced the Met Gala in a sheer nude gown, Daisy Edgar-Jones promoted ‘Twisters’ in a pale blue mock neck dress, Sienna Miller brought the sheer white lace spaghetti strap dress to the Venice Film Festival, Suki Waterhouse opened for Taylor Swift’s London show in a flowing peach-toned dress, and Maya Rudolph walked the Emmys red carpet in a dusty rose iteration. The new Chloé Girls had arrived.
In recent years, a trend has emerged: some brands insist that anyone borrowing a look must adhere strictly to the runway styling. While the fresh-off-the-runway look is undeniably powerful (and we can only imagine the influx of stylists flooding Chloé PR’s inboxes after Kamali’s debut show), it’s a trend that’s losing its luster. The full look mandate lacks the flexibility required for real-world situations. Both Rudolph and Miller, for instance, opted for thigh-high leather boots on the red carpet, where strappy sandals or pumps would have been far more appropriate. It also begs the question about accessories like Edgar-Jones’s gold statement necklace, or Miller’s metallic cursive Chloé belt, which feel incongruent with their personal style.
While Chloé is not the only brand demanding full looks, it feels like a prime example, as the styling contradicts the free-spiritedness of the bohemian aesthetic. Earlier this year, Bella Hadid sported a full Gucci look from spring 2024 while out in New York City: a gray miniskirt and matching blazer with a nude tank top and towering platform monogram loafers. She even carried the same Ancora red bag with the telltale green-and-red striped strap. And when promoting ‘Inside Out 2’, Ayo Edebiri wore an eclectic paillette-covered vest over a button-up and printed asymmetrical skirt. However, the Dries Van Noten look—down to the heeled sandals and geometric printed socks—was straight from the runway.
This directive to wear a look as though it just walked straight off the runway robs celebrities of the opportunity to express their unique personalities. Hadid, a style pioneer whose outfits often spark trends, would have been far more captivating had she styled the Gucci skirt suit or the bonkers platform loafers in her own signature way. This trend also disrespects stylists, stripping them of a crucial and creative aspect of their jobs. Hadid and Edebiri’s stylists, Molly Dickson and Danielle Goldberg respectively, are among the best in the industry. Instead of allowing them to showcase their expertise by putting a look together, they are essentially reduced to simply waiting for the outfit to arrive.
There are understandable reasons why brands insist on maintaining the runway look. They might fear their clothing being overshadowed, or worse, altered by the rest of the outfit. There’s also no denying that some celebrities receive compensation for wearing full looks. However, at the end of the day, designers need to relinquish control. When collections reach retailers, they are not sold as full looks but as individual components. They can’t style every person who purchases their clothing or dictate that they be worn as full outfits. People integrate pieces into their everyday wardrobes, mixing them with other brands. Clothes are worn not as pre-determined full looks but as a hodgepodge reflecting the wearer’s unique style. So please, designers, let’s end the full look mandate and allow people to dress like themselves.
