The term ‘hobo bag’ is undoubtedly outdated and problematic. Despite this, luxury brands continue to embrace the structureless, capacious silhouette, often using the term ‘hobo’ to describe it. The irony is undeniable – luxury bags, retailing for upwards of £1,000, are compared to the slouchy holdalls first carried by American migrant workers in the late 19th century, a time when the term ‘hobo’ was first used. This comparison inevitably raises accusations of cultural misappropriation, highlighting the industry’s tendency to monetize ‘homeless chic.’
While some might argue that the ‘hobo’ bag has become so divorced from its original meaning that most consumers don’t make the connection, the reality is that the industry has repeatedly been called out for profiting from this problematic association. Designers like John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood have faced criticism for their use of ‘homeless chic’ aesthetics.
Despite the ethical concerns, consumers eagerly embrace the ‘boho’ trend, drawn to the allure of these bags. Celebrities like Bella Hadid, Kylie Jenner, and Hailey Bieber are seen sporting them, further popularizing the style. This trend transcends the actual term ‘hobo’; even when brands avoid using it directly, the descriptors they use – ‘supple,’ ‘spacious,’ ‘simple’ – inevitably evoke the ‘hobo’ silhouette. Saint Laurent’s ‘Le 5 à 7 Supple,’ Chloé’s ‘Marcie’ (with ‘hobo’ added after the name), and Miu Miu’s ‘hobo bag’ all fall into this category.
While brands may use flowery language to describe their ‘hobo’ bags, the underlying issue remains. Should money trump morals? Coach’s new ‘Brooklyn’ bag, while attempting to steer clear of the ‘hobo’ narrative, ends up evoking similar associations with its ‘lo-fi, beatnik’ aesthetic.
Fashion’s cyclical nature ensures the return of the ‘hobo’ style, but the industry’s reluctance to evolve extends beyond naming conventions. The persistence of problematic terms like ‘hobo’ reflects a broader issue of sustainability and ethical responsibility. Some argue that the ‘hobo bag’ holds a long and authentic cultural history, but the association with homelessness and poverty remains undeniable.
In an era of remakes across all creative industries, fashion must strive for forward-thinking names that reflect its values. It’s time to move beyond the problematic legacy of the ‘hobo’ bag and embrace a more ethical and inclusive approach to design and branding.
