For those who truly love to wander, there are few experiences more exhilarating than hitting the open road and exploring the world’s most beautiful landscapes. In the UK, the North Coast 500 (NC500), a 516-mile journey through the rugged Scottish Highlands, stands out as a breathtaking adventure. This iconic route, capturing the hearts of travelers worldwide, offers a unique blend of stunning scenery, historic sites, and quintessential Scottish charm.
However, this September and October 2024, travelers planning to traverse the NC500 should be aware of a temporary, but significant, change: the Bealach na Ba, one of the route’s most breathtaking yet challenging sections, will be closed in the evenings and overnight for eight weeks. While this closure may impact some travel plans, the NC500 remains an unparalleled journey through Scotland’s most awe-inspiring landscapes.
The Bealach na Ba, translating to “Pass of the Cattle,” is a legendary stretch of road winding its way up to the Applecross Peninsula. Known for its hairpin bends, steep gradients, and jaw-dropping views, this road is often considered one of the UK’s most challenging drives. It’s not for the faint of heart, but for those who dare, the rewards are extraordinary. The closure in September and October 2024 is to facilitate essential maintenance and safety improvements. While it may require adjustments to travel plans, it’s important to remember that this is just one part of a much larger adventure. During daylight hours, the road will remain open, allowing drivers to still experience this thrilling route—albeit with careful planning.
For those determined to conquer the Bealach na Ba, the best approach is to plan your drive during daylight hours, taking advantage of the sweeping landscapes and dramatic vistas that have made this road famous. The closure times present an opportunity to slow down, savor the journey, and perhaps explore other parts of the NC500 at a more leisurely pace.
The NC500 is not just about the drive itself; it’s about the experiences and discoveries along the way. From ancient castles and rugged coastlines to charming villages and hidden beaches, this route has something for every traveler.
Starting in Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, the NC500 journey begins. This vibrant city offers a mix of culture and history, with attractions like Inverness Castle and the Caledonian Canal. As you leave Inverness behind, the landscape quickly becomes wilder and more remote. The road to Torridon takes you through some of the Highlands’ most stunning scenery. Along the way, you’ll pass through picturesque villages like Garve and Achnasheen, where you can stop for a bite to eat or simply enjoy the peaceful surroundings.
As you approach Torridon, the mountains rise dramatically from the lochs, creating a truly spectacular landscape. Torridon is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts, with numerous hiking trails leading through the mountains and along the lochs. If you prefer something less strenuous, consider a boat trip on Loch Torridon or relax in one of the local pubs.
From Torridon, the road continues north along the coast, offering breathtaking views at every turn. This section of the NC500 is known for its rugged beauty, with towering cliffs, sandy beaches, and the occasional waterfall adding to the drama of the landscape. One of the highlights of this stretch is the Bealach na Ba, which, despite the evening and overnight closures, remains a must-see during daylight hours. The road climbs steeply from sea level to over 2,000 feet, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and the Isle of Skye in the distance.
As you descend from the heights of the Bealach na Ba, the road leads you to the charming village of Applecross. This remote community is a great place to stop for lunch and explore, with its sandy beaches, friendly locals, and stunning views across the water.
Continuing north, you’ll reach Ullapool, a bustling port town that serves as a gateway to the Outer Hebrides. Ullapool is known for its lively arts scene, with numerous galleries and craft shops showcasing the work of local artists. It’s also a great place to sample fresh seafood, with several excellent restaurants and pubs offering a taste of the sea.
Leaving Ullapool behind, the NC500 takes you deeper into the wilderness. This section of the route is less populated, with vast stretches of moorland, pristine beaches, and rugged mountains dominating the landscape. It’s a place where you can truly feel the solitude and majesty of the Scottish Highlands.
One of the highlights of this part of the journey is the beach at Achmelvich, a hidden gem with white sands and turquoise waters that could easily be mistaken for the Caribbean. It’s the perfect spot for a picnic or a quick swim, weather permitting.
Further along the route, you’ll pass through the village of Scourie, known for its beautiful bay and abundant wildlife. This area is a haven for birdwatchers, with numerous species of seabirds nesting on the cliffs. The day’s journey ends in Durness, the most northwesterly village on the British mainland.
Durness is famous for its dramatic cliffs and the stunning Smoo Cave, a sea cave that can be explored by boat. The village is also a great base for exploring the surrounding area, including the nearby Cape Wrath, the most northwesterly point in mainland Britain.
From Durness, the road turns east, following the northern coast of Scotland. This section of the NC500 is known for its wild beauty, with dramatic cliffs, windswept beaches, and ancient ruins adding to the allure of the landscape. One of the highlights of this stretch is the Castle of Mey, the former summer residence of the Queen Mother. The castle is open to the public, and a visit offers a fascinating glimpse into the history of the British royal family.
As you continue along the coast, you’ll pass through the towns of Thurso and John o’ Groats, both of which offer a variety of attractions and activities. Thurso is known for its surfing, while John o’ Groats is famous as the northernmost point of the British mainland. The day’s journey ends in Wick, a historic town that was once the herring capital of Europe. Wick is home to the Pulteney Distillery, one of Scotland’s oldest whisky distilleries, where you can take a tour and sample some of the local produce.
The final leg of the NC500 takes you south along the east coast, back to Inverness. This part of the route is less rugged than the western and northern sections, but it’s no less beautiful. The road winds through rolling hills, past ancient castles and pretty villages, offering plenty of opportunities for exploration.
One of the highlights of this stretch is Dunrobin Castle, a fairy-tale castle with stunning gardens overlooking the sea. The castle is open to the public, and a visit offers a fascinating insight into the history of the Sutherland family, who have lived here for over 700 years.
As you approach Inverness, the landscape becomes more gentle, with fertile farmland and quiet woodlands. The road follows the coast, offering glimpses of the Moray Firth and the distant mountains. The journey ends where it began, in Inverness. Here, you can reflect on your adventure, perhaps with a final walk along the banks of the River Ness or a visit to one of the city’s many attractions.
While the temporary closure of the Bealach na Ba may seem like a setback, it’s important to remember that the North Coast 500 is about much more than just one road. The route offers countless opportunities for exploration and adventure, and with a little planning, you can still experience all the magic that the NC500 has to offer. Consider adjusting your itinerary to spend more time in the areas that remain open during the closure. Take the opportunity to explore some of the lesser-known parts of the route, or perhaps spend an extra day in one of the charming villages along the way.
The North Coast 500 is more than just a road trip; it’s a journey into the soul of Scotland. Despite the temporary closure of the Bealach na Ba, this iconic route remains one of the most beautiful and rewarding drives in the world. For hodophiles seeking the ultimate adventure, the NC500 offers a chance to connect with nature, history, and the rich culture of the Scottish Highlands. So, as you plan your trip, remember that the road may be challenging, but the rewards are well worth it. Whether you’re driving through misty glens, standing on windswept cliffs, or discovering hidden gems along the way, the North Coast 500 promises an unforgettable experience—a journey that will stay with you long after you’ve left the Highlands behind.
