The sporty silhouette of the polo shirt is getting a topspin this season, evident on the runways and in street style. From silk chiffon, ankle-length polo dresses at Loewe SS24 to graphic printed versions paired with oversized jackets at MSGM, the polo is being reimagined with modern twists. Even Gucci showcased matching knitted shirts and shorts, proving the versatility of the style.
Zendaya, known for her impeccable style, validated the trend during the press tour of her tennis film *Challengers*. Her ensembles included a pale pink Jacquemus cutout dress with a polo top and a sleeveless halterneck Thom Browne gown featuring a polo collar embroidered with tennis rackets. The timing couldn’t be better, with Wimbledon and the Paris 2024 Summer Olympics starting in July, leading us into a sporty summer.
The polo shirt’s origins trace back to the world of tennis in the 1920s, though evidence suggests polo players wore similar shirts as far back as the 1850s. French tennis champion René Lacoste, known as “Le Croc”, invented the classic polo shirt in 1926, finding traditional tennis shirts too constricting. He created a lightweight, short-sleeved, cotton piqué knit shirt with a soft flat collar and two-button placket, a stark contrast to the heavy, long-sleeved shirts and ties worn on the tennis courts at the time. The iconic embroidered crocodile symbol on the shirt’s chest was a nod to his nickname.
In 1952, British tennis player Fred Perry also founded his eponymous sportswear label, featuring tennis shirts. The style soon made its way to the US, becoming a foundational part of what was known as “the Ivy look” or “American preppy.” Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly championed the polo shirt in their off-duty style, representing the crisp, casual, and eternally chic aesthetic of the top.
Ralph Lauren launched his iconic multicolored polo shirts with the distinct polo player insignia in 1972. “It was never about a shirt, but a way of living,” the designer has said about his most famous design. In 1983, Tom Cruise further cemented the polo’s cool, youthful appeal by wearing a striped polo in his breakout film *Risky Business*.
Today, stars like Hailey Bieber and Sydney Sweeney are giving their street-style interpretations of the polo. This season, designers are pushing the boundaries, incorporating bold colors, unique patterns, and innovative materials. “We are seeing interesting versions in fabrics that you would not have necessarily thought to put together,” says Saudi designer Yasmina Qanzal, founder of Yasmina Q. Her popular Gigi sweater features a slouchy silhouette with a classic polo collar, versatile enough to be dressed up or down. “There’s also been a shift toward wellness, which is apparent in the après-sport looks on the runway,” she adds.
Fahad Aljomiah, cofounder of Saudi label 1886, shares Qanzal’s sentiment. “Polo shirts are a mainstay for our label because many of our pieces have timeless appeal. People gravitate toward familiar and comfortable styles that evoke a sense of nostalgia and simpler times,” he says. Influencer Lama Alakeel proved to be on team polo when she was seen in an inspired and playful Miu Miu dress in Cannes this summer. “You can never go wrong with a polo shirt, and I love the styles this season from Gucci, Dries Van Noten, and Miu Miu,” she says, with the latter layering its iterations with button-down shirts, blazers, and its signature micro minis.
Lacoste returned to the runway, giving its OG style a shiny, figure-hugging makeover and pairing it with pleated tennis skirts. Simone Rocha added an embellished corset overlay to the sporty top for her FW24 collection, giving it a couture feel, while Stella McCartney created a brown bodysuit version. At Givenchy, a sleek black style was tucked into a pencil skirt, while at Dries Van Noten, oversized polos were cinched with drawstrings.
From its origins on the tennis court to its current status as a fashion must-have, the polo shirt has continually evolved while retaining its classic charm. As designers and celebrities continue to embrace and reinvent this ace, its place in fashion history remains assured.
