The Scottish kilt, a symbol of tradition steeped in history and cultural significance, is experiencing a remarkable reinvention. From its classic roots, the kilt is taking over the streets and runways, showcasing a contemporary twist on this iconic garment for the Fall/Winter 2024 season.
Tradition, by its very nature, is often associated with something timeless, immutable, and enduring. It represents a sociocultural heritage passed down through generations, existing beyond fleeting trends. This phenomenon is evident across all spheres, including fashion. However, when tradition is deconstructed and placed in a new context, it sparks something entirely fresh, often defying expectations. This is where designers truly demonstrate their innovative potential and creative prowess.
Among the countless garments reimagined and repurposed, the Scottish kilt stands out. While it has been around for centuries, its recognizable form didn’t truly emerge until the 18th century. Today, designers are taking this historic garment and pushing its boundaries.
From Vivienne Westwood’s punk-inspired interpretations to Chopova Lowena’s sustainable designs and Burberry’s luxurious creations, the kilt is being celebrated in all its glory. Street style embraces these new visions of the tartan skirt, proving that the British saying, “it’s a kilt, not a skirt,” is a matter of perspective. In its modern iterations, the kilt is undeniably a skirt.
Delving into the origins of the kilt reveals its evolution. It wasn’t always the recognizable skirt we know today. Initially, it was a 5-meter-long wool cloth with a tartan pattern, draped and fastened with buckles, then cinched with a belt. Legend has it that the fabric was so grand that it required a person to lie down on it for it to be draped correctly. Over time, the cloth was simplified, reduced in size, and sewn, transforming it into the skirt we see today.
The kilt’s defining characteristic isn’t just its pattern, but its iconic tartan. Each clan in Scotland had its unique tartan, representing their lineage and heritage. While this symbolism still holds immense value in Scotland, it has taken on a different meaning in the world of fashion. It has transcended its clan affiliations to become a universal symbol of style. The traditional kilt remains a classic, while contemporary designers are reinterpreting it with new cuts and fabrics. Chopova Lowena, for instance, pairs kilts with vintage leather belts, adding a touch of rebellious chic.
Daniel Lee, at Burberry, has presented the most exquisite version of the contemporary kilt. Drawing inspiration from its rich history, he crafted an extreme, elongated, and incredibly lightweight kilt, fit for even the red carpet. Jennifer Lopez graced the Fall/Winter 2024-2025 Burberry runway wearing look number 3, showcasing Lee’s vision. The kilt comes in various styles, including a forest green version and the classic tartan pattern in the latest fashion colors.
Design houses are encouraging people to embrace the kilt beyond the festive season. Tartan is becoming an alternative to prints like polka dots, stripes, and florals, proving its versatility for all seasons. Perhaps this trend reflects our changing climate, where weather patterns blend together, leading to experiencing all four seasons within a single week.
Once again, fashion isn’t just about new styles and creative proposals; it’s also a reflection of our world and a catalyst for deeper thought. The Scottish kilt, in its reinvented form, embodies this idea perfectly. It’s a testament to tradition, evolution, and the power of creativity in shaping the future of fashion.