Urban development has left its mark on the world, often erasing history and tradition in its wake. In central Portugal, a little glass of history, Carcavelos wine, almost vanished entirely in the 20th century due to urban sprawl. Now, thanks to the efforts of the Villa Oeiras project, this unique fortified wine is making a triumphant return.
Carcavelos, a fortified wine produced in boutique amounts just west of Lisbon, is largely unknown to consumers. While Port and Madeira are household names in the fortified wine world, Carcavelos has been relegated to the dusty annals of history. The earliest records of Carcavelos date back to the 15th century, and the region reached its peak of production in the 18th century. It was during this era that the legendary Marquês de Pombal, responsible for rebuilding Lisbon after the devastating earthquake of 1755, bestowed international recognition upon the wine. He famously offered his Carcavelos production at favorable rates to the English, sparking exports and solidifying its reputation.
However, the march of modernity proved more devastating than even the phylloxera plague, which ravaged vineyards across Europe. Urban development in the Greater Lisbon area devoured vast tracts of land, leaving few hectares dedicated to vineyards. The original vineyard area, flanked by modern apartment complexes, serves as a stark reminder of the region’s near-oblivion. Alexandre Lisboa, project manager of Villa Oeiras, poignantly describes the loss: “With the Second World War, with the world crisis, and after that with a colonial war in Lisbon, in Portugal, and with urban development between Lisbon and Cascais, it took all of the place, almost all of the place.” He laments the near-total erasure of a centuries-old winemaking culture, emphasizing that “30 or 40 years was enough to wipe away an entire culture of winemaking in this region.”
Villa Oeiras is meticulously restoring Carcavelos to its former glory. Replanting began in 1983 with five hectares at the Pombal estate, and as of October 2024, 32 hectares are dedicated to Carcavelos production, with expansion plans for the coming year. Lisboa explains the project’s multifaceted approach: “We started this project as a scientific project to understand the varieties, the technology, to study the climate, the terroir. And after that…it was a joint venture between the and the Municipality of Oeiras. And after that, we started to grow the production and to promote the wine in Portugal, but also for exportation to other countries. And now we are exporting for 15 different countries.”
Carcavelos shares a common thread with its fortified counterparts – Port, Madeira, and Moscatel de Setubal – as they are all fortified with grape spirit. However, its unique character lies in the influence of the Atlantic Ocean, creating a distinctive flavor profile. Lisboa describes the wine’s elegance: “You are trying a sweet wine with a dry character. Because at the end, you have always the salt in your mouth that dries your tongue. And this is something that you are not going to find in every sweet wine, or almost in none of them. And I think it’s something that captivates the consumer.”
One striking aspect of Carcavelos is the complete absence of vintage examples. While aged bottles of Port, Moscatel de Setubal, and Madeira exist, no vintage Carcavelos remains. The 20th century consumed it all, leaving a clean slate for the project to build upon. “We are forced also to build wine heritage for the future,” Lisboa states. “We are one day going to taste a Carcavelos with 100 years. And that’s our truly goal in this project.”
To foster the wine’s revival, Villa Oeiras has extended its facilities to other producers. Lisboa shares, “We are supporting other producers to show up, to use our facilities, our cellar, our winery, so they can bring the grapes and they can produce their wine.”
Across from the Villa sits the , a venue that recently hosted an event drawing fortified wine enthusiasts from across the country and beyond. Carcavelos wines from Villa Oeiras took center stage, showcasing their refined, silky texture and honeyed, cooked fruit flavors, balanced by a tantalizing salinity. This unique fortified wine from coastal Portugal is not only making history, but it’s also poised to replace the history that time erased. Carcavelos is back, and it’s here to stay.
