The War of the Rosés
As rosé season approaches, a battle rages behind the scenes in the drink’s spiritual home, the south of France. Traditionalists claim upstart rivals are diluting its reputation by jumping on the lucrative trend for pale rosé. They argue these lighter-hued drinks lack flavor and substance and give rosé a bad name.
The lighter, blush-colored versions have become so ubiquitous that they’re seen as basic. Thanks to the array of rosé-infused slogans on merchandise, it’s practically the “live laugh love” of wine. Traditionalists have banded together to form L’Association Internationale des Rosés de Terroirs, dedicated to promoting the “aristocracy of rosé.”
Swimming Pool Rosé
Traditionalists have even coined a name for their disdain – “swimming pool rosé.” It’s a name that would be quite catchy for the very drink they’re railing against, ironically.
The Rise and Fall of Rosé
How did rosé become so divisive? Some winemakers believe it has become too successful for its own good, which is ironic considering its slow rise to popularity. Many winemakers once considered rosé inferior, a way to use up sub-standard grapes not good enough for red wine.
In the Noughties, pale, Provençal dry rosé gained popularity as an alternative to sweeter wines. Whispering Angel, made at Château d’Esclans, led the charge. Its owner, Sacha Lichine, proved to be a marketing wizard, getting the wine on menus at celebrity-friendly haunts worldwide.
Rosé’s success was also boosted by its association with French chic. It’s a comparatively quick and cheap wine to make, so more vineyards wanted in on the action. Celebrities also joined the fray, including Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, who sold out their first bottles of Miraval Rosé in hours.
The Rosé Backlash
Rosé’s popularity has only increased since then, but other wines have taken a hit. Red wine sales in France have dropped significantly since the Nineties, and some Bordeaux winemakers have expanded into rosé. This has angered Provençal counterparts, who see it as “simple” and “not extraordinary.”
Outside France, there’s a growing backlash against rosé. With its forced hashtags, it has become the summer sibling of the pumpkin spice latte. Like fashion, wine trends come and go. Dry rosé may not be considered passé for too long, but for now, traditionalists and backlashers alike agree: rosé’s reputation is on the line.
