The denim landscape has undergone a dramatic transformation in recent years. Gone are the days of solely relying on a classic, straight-leg pair. 2024 has ushered in the era of ‘fashion denim,’ where bold silhouettes and couture-like craftsmanship reign supreme. From the dazzling gold tinsel-adorned jeans at Undercover to the whimsical chamomile flower-embellished styles at Gucci, designers are injecting their unique visions into denim, encouraging us to venture beyond the familiar territory of our trusty 501s.
One of the most prominent trends in denim fit is the ‘horseshoe’ silhouette, originally introduced by Alaïa in their autumn/winter 2023 collection. This exaggerated shape gracefully curves off the hips and then boomerangs back in at the ankle, creating a distinct banana-like silhouette. While this initial iteration might be considered avant-garde, designed to appeal to the high-fashion crowd, it has sparked a broader barrel-leg jeans movement, with varying degrees of tapering, ranging from subtle to more sculptural curves.
The influence of Alaïa’s horseshoe jeans has become undeniable, with celebrities embracing the style. Sienna Miller, for example, sported a pair at the Cannes Film Festival in May, while Julianne Moore recently styled a lighter wash version with a matching denim shirt. This trend has also caught the attention of major denim brands like Frame, Citizens of Humanity, and Agolde, who have all found success with similar bubble-like barrel shapes, making it a more accessible and commercial offering beyond just a street-style phenomenon. Miller even included a pair in her collection for M&S, hoping to replicate the widespread appeal of baggy or straight-leg jeans.
Marianne McDonald, Creative Director at Citizens of Humanity, highlighted the reasons behind the shape’s current relevance: “The horseshoe feels a bit sculptural, but still has the ability to look relaxed and sophisticated. It references vintage styles, yet feels modern.” Erik Torstensson, co-founder and creative director of Frame, echoed this sentiment, emphasizing the silhouette’s popularity: “For those who prefer to make a statement, the bubble jean offers a more exaggerated take on the barrel silhouette. This fit features a sculptural, curved outseam and a flattering shape at the mid-thigh.”
However, not everyone is drawn to the more exaggerated forms of the barrel-leg trend. For those seeking a more streamlined, classic denim silhouette, several brands offer subtle gradients in their barrel-leg styles. Minimalist brand Toteme provides a sleek take, available in a wide array of washes, while Whistles has long incorporated barrel-leg jeans as a core product in their collection. As someone who has been buying these jeans since 2019, I can attest to their excellent proportions, sitting high on the waist with just the right amount of slouch on the leg.
With such a diverse range of interpretations, there’s a perfect pair of barrel-leg jeans for every style preference. Whether you’re drawn to the bold, statement-making horseshoe silhouette or prefer a more subtle, classic take, these jeans are here to stay. Be sure to check out Vogue’s curated list of the best barrel-leg jeans for 2024 and beyond, ready to elevate your denim wardrobe to new heights.
