The creation of a wig is a meticulous process, akin to crafting a piece of jewelry or a haute couture garment. Using a delicate, custom-made mesh cap, artisans carefully sew each strand of hair with a needle, ensuring a natural and seamless result. This painstaking process is only one step in the journey of creating a wig. It begins with sourcing the perfect raw materials and selecting a desired style, culminating in a personalized and unique piece.
While this intricate process might have seemed abstract in the past, the wig industry has experienced a resurgence in recent years, fueled by its adoption by prominent figures in entertainment. Celebrities like Beyoncé, Rihanna, and Lady Gaga have not only popularized wigs but also reshaped the perception of their use, turning them into objects of desire.
“In the 2010s, celebrities wore wigs extensively, but they weren’t openly acknowledged. Now, every red carpet event or concert features these stars sporting different hairstyles, whether it’s a bold color, a radical cut, or a new texture. The secrecy is gone; it’s obvious that such transformations are impossible with natural hair, which would be severely damaged. The fact that it’s no longer hidden helps to dispel prejudices surrounding wigs,” explains hairstylist Shady Jordan, who has been in the industry since 2016. “Hair is undoubtedly a means of self-expression and has a significant impact on our appearance. It’s magical to have the ability to explore different versions of ourselves. No one is just one thing, and it’s incredibly liberating to experiment with different aesthetics.”
The use of increasingly realistic techniques and materials, such as lace and front lace, has further propelled the industry forward. These styles create such a natural look that wigs become practically imperceptible. Their creation involves the meticulous process described above, but with a key distinction: lace is completely hand-woven, demanding even more labor, while front lace is woven only on the front and top of the cap, the areas most exposed. The remaining hair is applied with a sewing machine.
“Just the strand-by-strand implantation of an average front lace wig can take nearly 60 hours of work because it’s very manual. The entire assembly takes about 20 days. A full lace wig can take up to 45 days,” explains hairstylist and wig maker Adriano Andrade.
The choice of raw materials also significantly impacts quality. While synthetic fibers dominated the market in the 1980s, human hair is now the most sought-after option for those seeking authenticity. “You can do anything with it: manipulate it with heat styling tools, create hairstyles and textures, color it, cut it. And the result is much more natural. Synthetic hair also has a shorter lifespan. Well-maintained human hair can last a lifetime,” adds Andrade, who has a clientele that includes individuals seeking wigs as an alternative to medical treatments that cause hair loss or for conditions like alopecia.
Despite its current boom, the wig has a long and storied history. The earliest documented evidence dates back to Ancient Egypt around 2700 BC. Egyptians traditionally shaved all body hair and wore wigs for public occasions. King Louis XIV of France, who suffered from baldness, was an avid wig enthusiast. He reportedly employed over 40 official wig makers to create his elaborate collection. The 18th century marked the peak of wig popularity. “During that era, wigs were a symbol of social status and worn by the aristocracy. It was the Rococo period, characterized by large, elaborate wigs with intricate details and varied shapes. Marie Antoinette was known for wearing extravagant styles, and the 2006 film by Sofia Coppola accurately depicts the importance of wigs in the queen’s wardrobe,” explains Roseana Sathler Portes Pereira, coordinator of the Fashion Design undergraduate program at PUC-Campinas.
Throughout history, the wig has also become a symbol of resistance and self-affirmation for marginalized communities, such as drag queens. The trajectory of this aesthetic, which has a significant influence on pop culture, fashion, and beauty, has contributed to the current popularization of the accessory – Pabllo Vittar is living proof. Shady Jordan’s journey into wig making began through her involvement in drag performance. “Hair is a form of identity in the drag world. It’s a crucial part of the characterization. Hairstyles tend to be maximalist, structured, vibrant, and elaborately crafted. Many drag queens make their own wigs, learning to weave and mold them. So it’s truly a defining aspect. I, for example, can only imagine myself fully transformed after putting on a wig,” she says. “I bought some rather unrefined wigs (machine-made and synthetic hair) for personal use and started practicing with them. Other drag queens soon became interested, placed orders, and became my first clients.”
Today, Shady boasts a collection of over 100 pieces and her wigs have been featured in major fashion editorials and on celebrities like singers Urias and Marina Sena, and TV host Sabrina Sato.
For Black women, hair has always been a form of expression, and wigs are an integral part of this history. “Looking back, I believe many Black women used wigs to achieve an appearance deemed ‘acceptable’ in a racist society or as an alternative way to care for their natural, curly hair, as there weren’t many products focused on that hair type. Today, it’s a space of much greater freedom, at least for some. Sometimes I like to wear the wigs I make. Other times, I wear braids or my natural hair. I can love my hair and still want to wear a wig. The notion that a Black woman who wears a wig wants to ‘hide’ her Blackness is more of a societal perspective on us, aimed at trapping us, rather than anything else,” says hairstylist and wig maker Lu Safro, who counts singer Iza as a client, a fan of transforming her hair with the help of wigs. “Internationally, wigs have always been a part of the identity of many iconic rappers, like Missy Elliott. Here in Brazil, they have gained popularity among numerous funk personalities, such as Ludmilla and her wife Brunna, and Mc Soffia.”
It’s impossible to discuss the art of wig making without mentioning another art form with which it’s intrinsically linked: theater. From Ancient Greece to the present day, wigs have been a cornerstone of characterization. For centuries, the age-old technique of wig making was disseminated in the wings of the stage. “When developing a character, the first element I consider is the hair. It’s a very rich code. You can use hair to communicate personal characteristics in a less obvious way, like melancholy, rebellion, an introspective personality. It’s fascinating. Have you ever thought about all the things your hair can say? There’s also an enchantment about a wig, because it’s like an extension of a feature of your own body that can be transformed. This is also true in film and television. Another interesting fact is that with the advancements in filmmaking equipment used for these screens, wigs need to be even more realistic,” comments costume designer and wig maker Malonna, who also creates wigs for musical performances. “Duda Beat and Gloria Groove are some of the singers I’ve worked with.”
Data confirms the expansion of this market. According to the Global Hair Extensions & Wigs Market Overview report, the wig and hair extension industry is projected to be worth US$14 billion by 2028, an increase of nearly 9%. The report indicates that the improvement in product quality is one of the drivers of this growth. “Today, a long human hair front lace wig can cost around R$10,000. But this price can vary widely depending on the required specifications. Brazilian hair, for example, is one of the highest quality, so it’s more expensive. If it’s light hair, it also becomes more expensive because you need more hair to fill the lace,” explains Adriano. “But there are many options available. There are many wigs made from synthetic materials, which are cheaper, Indian hair options that are widely used but don’t have the premium quality, and also versions from China with inferior quality but a more affordable price.”
Changing your hair like you change your clothes? If social media is any indication, the answer is yes. “In our time, the cycle of trends is accelerating, especially due to the internet, and wigs have emerged as an alternative to managing this acceleration,” reflects Professor Roseana Sathler, explaining one of the reasons behind the current rise of wig making. “People are actually realizing that it can be an accessory, and that we don’t have to be bound to the same look all the time. But even with all these developments in this market, it’s a movement that’s happening very strongly outside the country and is timidly reaching us here,” says beauty artist Krisna Carvalho, who uses lace wigs primarily for work with celebrities and fashion editorials. For the general public, the negative stereotype of artificiality that has long been associated with wigs is changing, but it’s still not an item that is part of mainstream everyday life. “I believe that wig making will become more common here outside of red carpets, but it will take time,” says Carvalho.
Here are ten national and international celebrities who rely on wigs and lace wigs to explore different versions of themselves:
PHOTO ASSISTANTS: Victor Cazuza and Pietra Lucchesi. EXECUTIVE PRODUCTION: Flavia Fraccaroli. STYLING: Zazá Pecego. FASHION PRODUCTION: Gabriela Botasso. MAKEUP ARTIST: Camila Barbosa. BEAUTY: João Miranda. BEAUTY ASSISTANTS: Jessica Santosi and Betynho. MANICURIST: Rose Luna WIGS: Shady Jordan. MODEL: Camila Santos. IMAGE PROCESSING: Philipe Mortosa.
