Ben Mervis, a renowned food writer and historian, has just unveiled his latest culinary masterpiece, ‘The Book of British Food’, published by Phaidon. This comprehensive guide takes readers on a journey through the history of British cuisine, showcasing 550 easy-to-follow recipes. To celebrate its release, Mervis is exclusively sharing his recipe for the quintessential British dish, fish and chips.
The love affair between Britain and fish and chips dates back to the early 1860s, with the opening of the first true chip shop in London. Many of these shops were established by Jewish immigrants who promoted ‘fish fried the Jewish way’ – essentially, coated in a simple batter of flour and water. A recipe in Alexis Soyer’s 1845 book, ‘A Shilling Cookery for the People’, mentions a similar ‘fish fried Jewish fashion’, suggesting that this style of fried fish arrived in Britain via the Portuguese Jewish ‘pescado frito’.
To create this classic dish, you’ll need a white fish, typically cod or haddock, which is battered and fried to achieve a light and crispy texture. The batter should be thin, avoiding a thick, heavy coating. While beer is often used in homemade or restaurant versions, it deviates from the traditional recipe. Many old-school chippies, with their grey-haired staff, still fry their fish and chips in beef dripping rather than vegetable oil, adding a distinct flavor that die-hard fans adore.
More than just a dish, fish and chips vary depending on the time of day or even the cook’s mood. However, salt and fat remain essential elements. The dish is traditionally served with a sprinkle of salt, malt vinegar, lemon wedges, and mushy peas.
Ingredients (serves 4)
* Rapeseed oil or beef dripping for frying
* 4 tbsp all-purpose flour
* 4 cod or haddock fillets, about 200g each, skin on
* Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the beer batter:
* 300ml beer, ale, or warm water
* 1 tsp dried yeast
* 240g all-purpose flour
* 1 tsp salt
For the chips:
* 750g floury potatoes, such as King Edward or Maris Piper, peeled or unpeeled, cut into 1-2cm thick chips
To serve:
* Lemon wedges
* Mushy peas
* Tartare sauce
* Tomato ketchup
* Mayonnaise
* Pickled onions
Instructions
1.
Make the beer batter:
Pour the beer or warm water into a bowl. Add the yeast and whisk until combined. In another bowl, sift the flour with a pinch of salt. Gradually add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients, whisking until a smooth batter forms. Cover with a tea towel and let rest for 2 hours.2.
Prepare the chips:
Line a large plate with kitchen paper. Heat the oil in a large saucepan or deep fryer to 140°C. Fry the chips in batches for 8-9 minutes until tender. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on the paper-lined plate. If time allows, allow the chips to firm up in the fridge for at least an hour.3.
Fry the chips again:
Increase the oil temperature to 190°C. Fry the chips in batches for 4-5 minutes, until golden brown. Remove and drain on a baking sheet or roasting tin. Keep warm in the oven at 80°C while the fish cooks.4.
Cook the fish:
Season the flour with salt and pepper and spread it on a large plate. Coat the fish in the seasoned flour, shaking off any excess. Using tongs, carefully dip the fish fillets into the batter, then gently lower them into the hot oil (be careful of splatters).5.
Fry the fish:
Cook for 5-7 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets, until golden brown and cooked through. Remove the fish and drain on paper towels. Repeat steps 4 and 5 as needed.6.
Serve:
Serve the fish and chips with lemon wedges, mushy peas, and your choice of accompaniments, such as tartar sauce, tomato ketchup, mayonnaise, or pickled onions.Now you can recreate the classic British culinary experience in your own kitchen! This recipe, from Ben Mervis’s ‘The Book of British Food,’ offers a delightful journey into the world of traditional British cuisine. Enjoy!
