Jewellery brands often throw around the word ‘icon,’ but few designs truly earn that distinction. An icon transcends trends, enduring the test of time and cultural shifts. The Bone cuff, created by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. and celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, is one such iconic piece.
The story behind the Bone cuff is as intriguing as the design itself. As a child in Rome, Peretti had a fascination with the forbidden, often visiting the crypt of a 17th-century Capuchin church and collecting small bones. This fascination, fueled by her mother’s disapproval, left a lasting impression. In Peretti’s words, “Things that are forbidden remain with you forever.”
The Bone cuff’s origins can be traced back to Peretti’s early collaborations with American designer Halston. She crafted prototypes in wood and ivory, foreshadowing the iconic design that would later define her career. When Peretti joined Tiffany & Co., the Bone cuff was one of two pieces she showcased, a testament to its potential. The other was the equally iconic bottle pendant.
The Bone cuff’s fluid, organic form is instantly recognizable. The design features gentle curves that conform to the contours of the wrist, with designated left and right sides. Initially, the cuff was crafted entirely by hand in solid sterling silver, resulting in a heavy and unwieldy piece. However, Peretti’s Italian silversmiths devised a more complex method, joining two pieces of silver to create a hollow, lighter design.
Peretti’s use of sterling silver was groundbreaking in fine jewellery. For centuries, the value of jewellery was primarily determined by precious materials like gold and gemstones. Tiffany & Co., despite being a leading American specialist in sterling silver, primarily crafted homeware and objects. Peretti’s biomorphic shapes, sculpted in the cool sheen of sterling silver, revolutionized the concept of jewellery, emphasizing design and aesthetic over materials.
As Peretti once stated, “What I want is not to become a status symbol but to give beauty at a price.”
To celebrate Peretti’s arrival at Tiffany & Co. in September 1974, the brand has launched new imagery as part of its ‘With Love, Since 1837’ campaign. The campaign, a tribute to Tiffany & Co.’s legends and icons, features the Bone cuff in one image, showcasing a floating hand with a ladybug on the index finger, a nod to the iconic advertisement image shot by photographer Hiro.
The 50th anniversary is marked by more than just new imagery. Throughout the year, Tiffany & Co. will introduce special creations, including reissues of Peretti icons with gemstones, and larger, bolder sizes. The brand has already released new Bone cuffs in yellow gold, adorned with pavé diamonds, and reimagined the emblematic Split cuff as rings, available in yellow gold and sterling silver. These pieces are a testament to Peretti’s lasting legacy, proving that even in miniature form, her inimitable biomorphic style retains its power and allure.
