Tod’s menswear presentation, held at Milan’s Pavilion of Contemporary Art, served as a fitting backdrop for creative director Matteo Tamburini’s debut menswear collection. It was a clear signal of the direction he intends to take the label – a path marked by streamlined yet light-handed design, supple but precise construction, a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity.
The collection exuded a casual-chic allure, achieved through a subdued palette of earth tones and a range of luxurious fabrics, including the newly introduced Pashmy suede, as silky soft as cashmere. This restrained and modern approach epitomized the relaxed dressing that defines Tod’s identity.
Inspiration for the collection was drawn from a diverse range of sources, including the artistic energy of Basquiat, the timeless style of Alain Delon, and the dapper eccentricity of designer Stefano Pilati. This eclectic mix underscored Tamburini’s ability to infuse his minimalist design aesthetic with a touch of the unconventional.
However, Tamburini also recognized the importance of grounding the collection in Tod’s core identity. He emphasized his pragmatic approach, stating that he wouldn’t stray from the brand’s established territory of elegant casual wear. His goal was to imbue the collection with a fresh appeal, stripping away excessive fashion details and anchoring it firmly in modernity.
Summer formal tailoring showcased a fluid deconstructed edge, while linen was heat-sealed and bonded with a protective membrane, making it ideal for activewear. The classic field jacket, a Tod’s staple, was reimagined in featherweight nappa leather.
Tamburini’s vision for the collection was summed up in his statement, “Going back to the essentials.” It conveyed the smart ease that is essential for men’s wardrobes today, blending timeless elegance with a contemporary sensibility.
