As the Creative Director of the Sozzani Foundation, Sara Sozzani Maino has a keen eye for emerging trends in the fashion world. During her recent visit to Tokyo Fashion Week, her attention was drawn to the youthful energy and innovative spirit of the designers. However, she also noted a need for designers to explore presentation methods beyond traditional catwalks. “While runways are essential for showcasing looks, there’s room for more diverse and engaging exhibitions,” she shared. “Brands like KIDSUPER, with their auction-style and comedy show formats, demonstrate the power of breaking boundaries. They create memorable experiences that make a statement.” She also pointed to Jacquemus as a prime example of a brand that embraces cultural roots and brings a fresh perspective with unique location choices and impactful communication strategies.
Sozzani Maino believes that brands showcasing the story behind their collections and the design process are poised for success in a world where newness is no longer the primary driver of consumption. “Hidesign, with its focus on uniform design, exemplifies this approach,” she explained. “Their presentations incorporate storytelling, showcasing the materials and patterns they developed, demonstrating a deep understanding of functionality and cultural elements.” She also highlighted Pillings, a brand leveraging technology and knitwear techniques, as well as Balmung and Kamiya, who capture the essence of Tokyo’s youth culture and rebellious spirit.
Sozzani Maino believes that designers need to go beyond just creating clothes and delve into the messages and purpose behind their designs. “They must communicate their values and messages through fashion and practice ethical design, taking responsibility for their impact on society. Simply relying on clothes alone is no longer enough. Designers need to focus on the presentation and storytelling as well. It is a tough market for new brands, but those who can showcase their uniqueness, communicate their values, and convey their passion have a better chance of standing out.” She stressed the importance of consistency and aligning every aspect of the brand with its story.
Looking toward the future of Tokyo Fashion Week, Sozzani Maino advocates for diversifying its offerings beyond the catwalks. “Introducing activities like student-focused panel discussions and university events will enhance the experience and encourage greater engagement,” she suggested. “More showroom space should be dedicated to showcasing emerging brands. We should create opportunities for designers to present, even if it’s on a smaller scale.” She also emphasizes the importance of listening to designers and understanding their vision to create a platform that truly reflects the diversity of the fashion landscape.
As a member of the advisory board for the Circular Fashion Summit, Sozzani Maino is deeply invested in the future of sustainable fashion. Her insights highlight the growing importance of brands embracing ethical practices, storytelling, and innovation to navigate the shifting landscape of the fashion industry. She believes that by fostering a collaborative and inclusive environment, Tokyo Fashion Week can become a leading platform for showcasing the best of emerging talent and shaping the future of fashion.
