Stepping into Umit Benan’s showroom in Milan is like entering a tranquil oasis amidst the city’s frenetic energy. The imposing steel door gives way to a warm, inviting space adorned with cozy furniture and a verdant courtyard, setting the stage for the designer’s collection of finely tailored garments. Benan, known for his laid-back aesthetic, describes his approach as a blend of “California attitude” and Italian craftsmanship.
While previous seasons were inspired by distinct characters, particularly from Latin America, Benan has shifted gears, embracing a more bespoke approach to luxury. “I had completely lost the relationship with the client,” he explained, emphasizing his new focus on building a wardrobe tailored to individual needs. This shift has resulted in a remarkable transformation for the brand. The relaxed fit remains a defining feature, but now it can be customized to the wearer’s specifications. Word-of-mouth marketing has propelled this personalized service, accounting for nearly 60% of the brand’s business. This success has prompted Benan to open a retail space in the heart of Milan, expected to open by December. The shop will feature two distinct areas: a space dedicated to showcasing the seasonal collection and an appointment-only studio offering personalized styling and bar services.
Beyond tailored garments, Benan is exploring new frontiers, including denim. “We tried to design a few jeans prototypes, but none of them completely convinced,” he revealed, highlighting his pursuit of a unique approach to denim. “I am looking for a gap—whether it’s in washes or silhouettes—to be filled in the market.” Benan’s exploration extends to knitwear as well, where he has partnered with one of Italy’s leading circular knitting factories. This collaboration has yielded a collection of fluid, lightweight jersey pieces without the use of elastane. The color palette is a symphony of tomato red and azzurro, reminiscent of the 1980s, creating an airy, vibrant feel that complements the designer’s signature loose silhouettes. Black and white accents provide a harmonious balance, while the play with textures, including linen mixed with silk or wool, and cotton mixed with silk, adds a layer of sophistication and richness to the collection.
