While Elsa Schiaparelli’s impact on fashion is undeniable, the depth of her life and legacy has remained largely unexplored, with limited documentaries dedicated to her story. This lack of insight, especially regarding her personal life, is what inspired journalist and fashion researcher Antonia Petta, alongside filmmaker Gabriel Dietrich, to create “The Private Album of Elsa Schiaparelli.” Premiering on November 16th at the 4th edition of the Mario de Andrade Library Film Festival, the documentary promises to unveil a side of Elsa rarely seen before.
“We showcase an Elsa that people don’t know,” reflects Antonia, highlighting the film’s aim to engage a new generation familiar with the work of Daniel Roseberry, Schiaparelli’s current creative director, and the Kardashian’s presence at his shows, but lacking an understanding of the heritage behind the name. “It’s a non-profit project geared towards this new generation,” she continues. The documentary delves deep into the complexities of Schiaparelli’s personality, revealing her vibrant social side – known affectionately as ‘Schiap,’ she seamlessly integrated with the Surrealist movement, becoming a fashion pioneer for its ideals – but also a more introspective, existentialist aspect.
In a moving interview captured in Marrakech, Morocco, Marisa Schiaparelli Berenson, Elsa’s granddaughter, reveals, “She felt like a bird in a cage.” The film utilizes a wealth of photographic material, generously provided by the Schiaparelli family for the first time, with Dietrich noting, “There are very few images we found of her smiling.”
The documentary draws on Marisa’s book of the same name, published ten years ago, which she narrates throughout the film. She not only reads excerpts from the book but also offers personal commentary, revealing previously untold details and insights into her grandmother’s life. Further contributing to the documentary’s depth, the Maison Schiaparelli’s Heritage Department in Paris has provided archival materials.
Marisa shares her perspective on her grandmother, “Elsa never thought she would be a designer. As a child, she had other aspirations and wasn’t sure what they were. She was rebellious, the ugly duckling of the family, the kind that no one understood or could deal with because she was very difficult. She had revolutionary idealistic ideas from a very young age.” She continues, “Wherever I see someone with bright pink hair, wrapped in leopard skin, wearing ripped jeans with a sequined top, mixing ancient Chinese robes with graphic T-shirts, my grandmother is there. She’s the prototype of punk.”
“The Private Album of Elsa Schiaparelli” seamlessly bridges the gap between Elsa’s legacy and Daniel Roseberry’s modern-day creations, highlighting the resurgence of Surrealism’s influence in fashion. “Surrealism is in this revival moment,” observes Antonia, referencing Roseberry’s recent CFDA recognition as Designer of the Year. She believes the film’s timing perfectly aligns with the current zeitgeist, “I took a sentence from one of Elsa’s books where she said, ‘surrealism makes a lot of sense when the world is messed up.’ I realized that was the topic.”
Never-before-seen images of Schiap wearing her iconic lobster dress, designed in collaboration with Salvador Dali in 1937, and her equally surrealist radish dress from 1949, underscore Schiaparelli’s pioneering role in merging art and fashion. Marisa reflects on this unique partnership, “It happened organically. It wasn’t planned. It’s not like today, where everyone is trying to copy that. The designer wanted to work with an artist because it was cool to work with an artist, for an artist to design his bag or something for him. Back then, it happened completely freely, organically, naturally.”
The documentary also explores the deeply intimate bond between Elsa and Marisa, highlighting their shared spirit despite their distinct paths. Marisa reflects, “We both lived our lives, pursued our dreams, and expressed ourselves in very different ways. But with the same kind of sense of freedom, energy, and independence – and simply not caring what others think.”
“The Private Album of Elsa Schiaparelli” premieres on November 16th, 2024, at 6:30 PM at the Praça das Artes – Mario de Andrade Festival, São Paulo. Free and open to the public. @bibliotecamariodeandrade
