Uzbekistan: A Journey Through Time on the Silk Road
‘Why on earth are you going there?’ This was the question my friends asked when I told them I was traveling to Uzbekistan, a former Soviet republic nestled between Russia, China, and a host of fellow ‘Stans.’ My answers revolved around the country’s rich Silk Road history and the ancient mystique of a place that served as Central Asia’s cultural cradle for over two millennia. But the truth? I was burned out, weary from the London rat race after moving from Sydney two years prior, and desperate to reignite my fascination with the world. Uzbekistan had just been named Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel for 2024, described as a place where travelers journey from ‘oasis to oasis,’ following the trading networks of centuries past. And with its captivating architecture, turquoise-tiled cities, and spiritual sunsets, Uzbekistan lived up to every expectation.
Tashkent: City of Soviet Hangovers
Our seven-day adventure began with a seven-hour flight to Tashkent, the capital city, brimming with Brutalist architecture and remnants of the USSR era. Tatiana, our first guide on this Silk Road journey, led us to iconic landmarks like Khast Imam Square, home to the world’s oldest Quran, and the bustling Chorsu Bazaar, where local bakers demonstrate the art of traditional breadmaking in clay ovens. We marveled at the facade of Hotel Uzbekistan, a once-grand building that hosted the Communist regime’s top brass, now a bit faded but still imposing. Later, we enjoyed a local brew at Pelikan Craft, a Soviet-style beer shop serving IPAs and local lagers on tap. Sipping my pint on one of Tashkent’s sprawling boulevards, I was struck by the incredible sense of safety in this city of 2.4 million people. Uzbekistan’s welcomes are warm, and it wasn’t long before we were joined by three friendly locals eager to practice their English.
A New Era of Accessibility
While British tourists are still a rarity in Uzbekistan—only about 10,000 visit each year—getting there has never been easier. Just a decade ago, the country was known for complex visa regulations and corruption. However, since the death of President Islam Karimov in 2016, obtaining a visa has become a straightforward process. Over 60 nationalities, including the UK, most EU countries, New Zealand, Australia, and South Korea, now qualify for visa-free travel for up to 30 days. Uzbekistan is now the most visited of the Central Asian republics, and for good reason.
The Silk Road: A Legacy of Trade
The Silk Road, an ancient trading route connecting China with the West, was regarded as the center of civilization for over a millennium. Stretching 12,000 kilometers, it earned its name from the Chinese silk that merchants traded along its path. The Silk Road stands as the first global trading route in history.
Samarkand: A City of Splendor
Any illusions I had about Uzbekistan’s modernity were quickly dispelled on our journey to Samarkand, the ultimate destination for Silk Road architecture. We boarded the high-speed Afrosiyab train, a remarkably comfortable Spanish-owned train with free tea and coffee, and significantly more legroom than anything you’d find in the UK. Our guide, Rukhana, met us at the station and whisked us straight to the mausoleum of Amir Timur, a fearsome commander and national hero who conquered vast swathes of Central Asia in the 14th century. The hand-tiled mosaics and glittering gold ceilings of the enormous memorial left no doubt about Timur’s power and influence.
Registan Square: A Symphony of Architecture
But the true highlight of Samarkand is the Registan, a spectacular square where mosques, madrassas, and minarets converge. One of Rukhana’s friends, who happened to be the director of the oldest building on the square, offered us the chance to climb a minaret for a bird’s-eye view. The climb was exhilarating, the spectacle captivating. From atop the minaret, we gazed upon an intricate tapestry of mosaics and symbols of Zoroastrianism, the ancient Persian religion once widely practiced in Uzbekistan. The Registan is equally enchanting at night, when locals bring their children to enjoy popcorn and music in the ethereal glow of the square’s lights. The atmosphere was joyful, and it felt like a wonderful place to grow up. I mentioned to Rukhana a recent study that ranked Uzbekistan as the most miserable country in the world, curious to hear her perspective. ‘Young people here often want to leave, but they don’t realize that life is good here. Or how hard it can be abroad, too,’ she explained.
Bukhara: A City of Tradition and Trade
The next morning, we were back on the spacious Afrosiyab train, heading towards Bukhara, a smaller, more intensely Islamic city located 270 kilometers northwest. Our two nights were spent in a hotel in the Jewish quarter of the old city, built around a series of wells and caravanserais, roadside inns along major trading routes on the Silk Road where merchants stopped for food, rest, and gossip. Centuries-old trading domes still provide shade for travelers browsing handwoven silk scarves and suzani (embroidered textiles) adorned with pomegranates, symbols of fertility. I nearly purchased a traditional titanium knife with a beautiful mother of pearl handle, but my international customs concerns got the better of me.
A Culinary Journey
The best food we encountered on our trip was served in the home of a Bukhara suzani maker. We feasted on cauldrons of plov, a rice-based dish topped with beef or lamb, raisins, and yellow carrots, and samsa, a savory pastry filled with meat, which our guide, Rimma, described as Uzbekistan’s version of McDonald’s. While the golden arches haven’t made it to this part of Central Asia yet (though they do have Wendy’s and recently opened their first KFC), there’s no doubt that eating here presents challenges for vegans and vegetarians. But the Uzbeks know how to make a salad, and they grow the juiciest tomatoes I’ve ever tasted. Don’t let the meat-heavy menu deter you.
Best Time to Visit and Activities
The best time to visit Uzbekistan is from March to mid-June and September to October. Most of the country experiences an extreme continental climate with sweltering summers and freezing winters. Traveling during these periods allows you to avoid extreme weather. Uzbekistan is often perceived as a culture-rich destination for mature travelers (in fact, all the visitors we met on our trip were 60 and older). But travel expert Sunita Ramanand, founder of Trotting Soles, assures us that the country has plenty to offer travelers of all ages and interests. ‘Varied landscapes provide excellent opportunities for activities like mountain biking, paragliding, white water rafting, heliskiing, hot air ballooning, and zip-lining, to name a few,’ she explains. ‘Uzbekistan is also one of the few affordable destinations that offers exceptional value to travelers.’
Khiva: A Spellbinding Oasis
Our seven-hour drive to Khiva took us past scenes rarely witnessed in Western countries. Women toiled in the fields, their kaleidoscope of headscarves fluttering in the breeze. Single cows rode on pickup trucks, their heavy rubber wheels disturbing the desert sand, which resembled a sea of brown sugar. Stacks of hay bales precariously perched on top of cartoonish Damas vans, affectionately nicknamed ‘loaves’ for their bread-like shape. While a seven-hour journey in the back of a Chevrolet seems unthinkable in the UK, our drive through the Kyzylkum desert was surprisingly comfortable. We arrived at our 2,700-year-old destination just in time to walk the old city walls at sunset, a truly magical experience that almost brought tears to my eyes. The Independent’s Simon Calder dubbed Khiva ‘one of the most astonishing places on earth,’ and he wasn’t exaggerating. This ancient city is renowned for its breathtaking Islamic architecture, but it also boasts a wealth of charming accommodations and dining options, from rooftop terraces overlooking magnificent blue-domed mosques to cafes nestled beneath towering minarets.
A Final Farewell to Central Asia
We spent our last two days exploring Khiva’s intricate madrassas, where mathematical theories were first discovered, and mosques supported by 1,000-year-old wooden beams. Our final afternoon was spent in awe as we watched a local family of acrobats perform a breathtaking tightrope act, one on top of the other. As the sun set on our time in Central Asia, we shared a drink with a group of six friends in their 60s, whom we had encountered repeatedly along the Silk Road. ‘People said to me, why the hell are you going there,’ one of them remarked over a glass of Saperavi wine. ‘Well, why the hell wouldn’t you come here?’
I couldn’t agree more.
