After a four-year absence from the runway, Vivienne Westwood made a grand return at Shanghai Fashion Week, officially closing the schedule with a collection that was as intriguing as it was confusing. The show opened with a masculine pinstripe suit paired with silver leather peep-toe heels, a signature Westwood play on gender norms that felt both familiar and refreshing in the context of Shanghai. This was followed by models in black frocks, one carrying a basketball, a playful nod to the collection’s statement – “Black, the best color for summer.”
The collection itself was a mixed bag, blending elements of ready-to-wear with athleisure, swimwear, and even a single Mao suit jacket. While the signature Westwood tailoring was evident in tailored jackets, signature skirt suits, and a series of corsets, the inclusion of biker shorts, tights, and wide-legged sweats felt jarring. This fusion, while potentially pushing boundaries, left some questioning the overall cohesiveness of the collection. The inclusion of a single Mao suit jacket, particularly in a collection that already felt eclectic, raised eyebrows. While it’s commendable for visiting labels to explore local elements, it’s important to do so with thoughtfulness and a deeper understanding of the cultural context. This, especially when China boasts an abundance of talented designers already reinterpreting local traditions in innovative ways.
The true stars of the show, however, remained the classic Westwood elements. The signature plaid, tailored jackets, and the iconic Dame Vivienne skirt suits resonated with the audience and reminded everyone of the reason why Westwood continues to hold such a special place in the fashion world. On the menswear side, a black blouse with a ruched collar and a cropped denim jacket paired with a tiny black harness stood out. The collection also included a few sparkly dresses and draped frocks that are sure to be a hit with the celebrity set, a key target demographic for Westwood. With American celebrities like Taylor Swift and Malia Obama already fans of the label, it seems likely that the next stop for Vivienne Westwood’s traveling runway show might be the fashion capital of New York. Only time will tell if the brand will continue to explore new, unexpected directions or if it will stick to its tried-and-true formula of classic designs infused with a rebellious spirit.