Vogue World: Paris Celebrates Fashion and Sport Through the Decades

On the evening of Sunday, June 23rd, Vogue World: Paris unfolded a captivating performance that blended fashion and sport seamlessly. The event, which started at the Ritz and concluded with 20 international breakdancers taking over Place Vendôme, featured 188 athletes, 151 models, 70 dancers, and a 40-piece orchestra. This spectacle was a celebration of the evolution of style over the last century, with each decade of fashion paired with a distinct sport.

The Roaring Twenties, a time of speed, freedom, and mobility, found its counterpart in cycling, reflecting the era’s association with bicycles. The elegant midcentury gowns of the 1950s were paired with all things equine, evoking a sense of grace and sophistication. The leotard- and lycra-obsessed 1970s were represented through gymnastics, highlighting the era’s focus on athleticism and movement. The 1990s, often referred to as the WAG era, were connected with football, reflecting the influence of sports wives and girlfriends on fashion trends.

Carine Roitfeld, who styled the event with Ib Kamara, aptly described it as “something that’s never been seen before.” Vogue World marked the first time a fashion show was staged at Place Vendôme, making the event a historic moment for both fashion and performance art.

The show opened with a tribute to the unsung heroes of couture, the petites mains. Dozens of artisans, clad in their traditional white coats, made their way through the square, representing some of the most prestigious fashion houses, including Armani Privé, Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Maison Margiela, and Schiaparelli. They then took front-row seats to witness the unfolding spectacle.

Jean Paul Gaultier, the enfant terrible of French fashion, played a key role in the evening’s ouverture. He dressed French-Malian musician Aya Nakamura in a custom-made gown backstage at the Ritz. This unique design, a fusion of two previous Gaultier creations, paid homage to the designer’s bold style and innovative spirit. Aya Nakamura, the most widely streamed female artist in the French-speaking world, took to the stage at Place Vendôme, captivating the audience with her performance. Her movements were narrated by the evening’s emcee, Cara Delevingne, who donned a nautical look from Simone Rocha’s collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier.

The 1920s-themed act of Vogue World paid tribute to Coco Chanel, a legendary figure whose influence on fashion extends beyond a single decade. Chanel, who spent decades of her life at the Ritz, had a profound impact on the fashion landscape of the 1920s. She is famously credited with introducing the LBD, the “frock that all the world would wear,” in 1924. Models showcased recreations of designs from that era, while cyclists from the French National Team zipped around Place Vendôme, creating a dynamic visual contrast.

The glamorous 1930s-inspired segment commenced with a quintet of models donning monochrome Balenciaga gowns. The segment then shifted to a track-and-field tribute that included a reimagining of the Course des Cafés, a historic race, and a parade of models in garments inspired by the period between the two world wars. The segment featured two standout looks curated by Carine Roitfeld. A Nina Ricci tuxedo, a tribute to Marlene Dietrich’s bold style, was worn by Keiona, a talented drag performer, while Karlie Kloss embodied a “Schiapar-alien” look designed by Daniel Roseberry.

The 1940s act celebrated the Riviera-inspired designs of the era, focusing on the iconic bikini. While Brigitte Bardot brought international recognition to the two-piece swimsuit during the 1953 Cannes Film Festival, its origins can be traced back to 1946, with both couturier Jacques Heim and engineer Louis Réard claiming credit for its creation. Vogue World: Paris brought the Riviera to Place Vendôme with giant sun hats by Simon Porte Jacquemus and Sabrina Carpenter emerging from “waves” of blue fabric, channeling the spirit of the Croisette.

The grand finale of the 1950s-inspired section featured Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner, the new generation of supermodels, riding stallions Napo and Django through Place Vendôme. The horses were adorned with braided manes, following the instructions of maestro Eugene Souleiman. While Gigi, Kendall, and their steeds were dressed head-to-hoof by Hermès, a maison originally founded as a saddle-making workshop in 1837, other models appeared in a tricolore twist on Christian Dior’s Bar Suit, a silhouette inspired by Victorian-era riding habits.

Parris Goebel, the choreographer behind Rihanna’s Super Bowl Halftime Show, orchestrated the movement of hundreds of dancers throughout Vogue World: Paris. The 1960s-inspired chapter included a captivating fencing sequence, featuring foil master Miles Chamley-Watson and épée great Laura Flessel-Colovic. The athletes were complemented by recreations of André Courrèges and Paco Rabanne’s silver Space-Age designs, overseen by creative directors Nicolas Di Felice and Julien Dossena.

The 1970s act paid homage to the trailblazing Black models who participated in the Battle of Versailles, a pivotal event that reshaped the fashion world. The 1973 charity event, held at the Théâtre Gabriel, brought together five French couturiers and five American designers in a competition that showcased the best of both the Old World and the New. The US contingent, including Halston, Bill Blass, Stephen Burrows, Anne Klein, and Oscar de la Renta, unexpectedly triumphed over their French counterparts. The 10 African-American models, including Pat Cleveland and Bethann Hardison, who wore the American designers’ creations, brought the Black is Beautiful movement across the Atlantic, signifying a watershed moment for diversity in the fashion industry. Vogue World’s 1970s act featured models like Debra Shaw honoring their legacy in 1970s-inspired Givenchy capes that evoked the flower-colored chiffons presented at Versailles.

The 1980s segment of Vogue World celebrated the Japanese designers who revolutionized Paris fashion during the decade of decadence. Models, including Katy Perry, showcased sculptural creations by Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, and Noir Kei Ninomiya, while drummers from the Paris Taiko Ensemble, clad in Pleats Please by Issey Miyake, provided the soundtrack for a performance by 60 martial artists, including eight judokas from the French National Team.

Vogue World: Paris reached its zenith with a vibrant 1990s act that celebrated French victory in the 1998 World Cup. Emmanuel Petit, a midfielder on the winning team, joined 42 other footballers from the Île-de-France Football League on Place Vendôme. The patriotic atmosphere was heightened by model Anok Yai wearing a Pieter Mulier recreation of the 1989 tricolore Alaïa gown worn by opera singer Jessye Norman to sing “La Marseillaise” on Place de la Concorde. The energy reached a fever pitch when Met Gala co-host Bad Bunny stepped out to serenade the crowd.

The 2000s portion of Vogue World: Paris celebrated both tennis and Nicolas Ghesquière’s decade at Louis Vuitton. Serena and Venus Williams made a lasting impression in two custom looks. Serena, the GOAT, paid tribute to her long-standing relationship with Virgil Abloh by wearing a dress by Ib Kamara for Off-White. Venus, on the other hand, donned a Marine Serre look crafted from recycled tennis bags, highlighting the importance of sustainable fashion. Marine Serre’s commitment to sustainability was also evident in the flags flown during the 1950s-themed section, which were all made from upcycled scarves.

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