In her latest book, Julie Satow shines a light on three extraordinary women who left an indelible mark on the 20th-century fashion industry: Hortense Odlum, president of Bonwit Teller from 1934 to 1940, Dorothy Shaver, president of Lord & Taylor from 1945 to 1959, and Geraldine Stutz, president of Henri Bendel from 1957 to 1986.
Satow’s research reveals that women in leadership roles in the fashion industry were breaking conventions long before it was widely recognized. As early as the 1890s, Macy’s had hired its first female executive.
In the early 20th century, department stores played a pivotal role in showcasing fashion trends. Without the internet or social media, fashion-conscious individuals relied on department stores to discover the latest styles. Dorothy Shaver’s influence at Lord & Taylor was instrumental in the success of American fashion designers Claire McCardell and Elizabeth Hawes. Lord & Taylor, under Shaver’s leadership, became the first store to feature the names of American fashion designers in advertisements.
Geraldine Stutz, at the helm of Bendel’s, brought Sonia Rykiel and Jean Muir to the US market and helped launch the career of Stephen Burrows. These women acted as fashion kingmakers, bringing the creations of talented designers from their ateliers to the mannequins in department stores and ultimately into the wardrobes of Americans.
Satow’s research unearthed fascinating details about the personal lives of these remarkable women. Hortense Odlum’s love rival was the famous aviator Jackie Cochran, and Shaver, who modeled herself after male CEOs, was the first woman to earn over a million dollars annually. Stutz, with her signature style and open calls for designers, became an iconic figure in the fashion world.
Through their leadership and vision, Hortense Odlum, Dorothy Shaver, and Geraldine Stutz left an indelible mark on the fashion industry. Their stories inspire and encourage us to recognize the contributions of women in shaping the world around us, both past and present.
