Jason Wu’s latest spring collection is a departure from his signature ladylike aesthetic, embracing imperfection and fluid lines. Inspired by the enduring power of art and the ephemeral nature of fabric, Wu has created a collection that is both timeless and modern.
Wu, who was taught calligraphy as a child, has always been drawn to the idea that art can transcend time. This concept is evident in the collection’s use of screenprinting on fabric, a technique that allows the under-fabric to peek through, creating a unique and layered effect. The designer’s inspiration also extends to the world of painting, with the incorporation of canvas alongside silk, chiffon, and muslin, adding a tactile element to the collection.
Wu’s fascination with ink, its fluidity and murkiness, is reflected in the collection’s emphasis on flou, lightness, and a pastel palette accented with black-and-white. This shift in aesthetic reflects Wu’s evolution as a designer, moving away from his earlier focus on couture references and embracing a more relaxed and modern approach.
The collection features a range of silhouettes, from tailored daywear and knits to the much-coveted Wu dresses. Familiar elements from past seasons, like plissés and distressing, are present, alongside a touch of Yohji Yamamoto’s signature style. Spring sees the introduction of fetching menswear pieces, a nod to Wu’s time at Hugo Boss, and a collaboration with Sergio Rossi on footwear.
One of the most striking features of the collection is the use of wafty chiffon, peeking out from tailored pieces like the robin’s egg-blue shorts suit and cascading from the seams of a trench/robe hybrid. Wu also experiments with geometric shapes, using them as unattached folds or vents, as seen on the crinkled tank tops.
The finale dresses, while beautiful, are somewhat derivative, contrasting flou and structure through the use of corsets. However, it is the unstudied ease of the earlier looks that truly captures the essence of the collection, feeling both right and right for now. Wu’s spring collection is a testament to his evolving vision, showcasing his mastery of both classic and contemporary design elements, while embracing a spirit of imperfection that feels refreshingly real.
