The invitation to Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2025 show, held on September 27th in Paris, was a subtle teaser. A black, translucent envelope housed a sliver of silver paper, hinting at the ethereal nature of the collection to come. The show itself unfolded within the grandeur of the Paris City Hall, where a grand piano took center stage. As models began to appear, Russian pianist Pavel Kolesnikov filled the space with classical melodies.
The first look, echoing the invitation, featured a diaphanous fabric, hinting at the body beneath. Red cords cascaded down the garment, adding a touch of unexpected vibrancy to the mostly monochrome collection. Throughout the show, Yamamoto continued to explore transparency, employing cutouts and lace to create a delicate interplay between skin and fabric. He also experimented with raw edges and seemingly random pieces, adding a sense of casualness to the otherwise refined designs.
Kolesnikov’s musical accompaniment extended beyond classical music, incorporating elements of Japanese pop and traditional folk music. The show concluded with a performance of Leonard Cohen’s “You Want It Darker” by Yamamoto himself, a powerful ending that led into a finale of five all-red looks.
For this collection, Yamamoto sought to achieve a sense of lightness. This was evident not only in the airy fabrics but also in the shorter hemlines and the use of thong sandals. Some garments featured strategically placed bones along the hems, causing them to sway with each step, adding a touch of whimsical movement.
Yamamoto also experimented with a deliberate sense of “childlikeness” and “amateurishness.” This approach, however, was far from haphazard. Asymmetry played a key role, creating a unique sense of balance that only Yamamoto could achieve. Every detail was meticulously considered, a testament to his tireless pursuit of beauty.
Despite his status as a global “Maestro,” Yamamoto continues to be incredibly humble. After each show, he deflects praise with a self-effacing gesture, emphasizing his constant desire to explore and challenge himself. Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a testament to his enduring passion for innovation, leaving us eager to see what he has in store for the future.
