Anthony Vaccarello, the creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, continues to honor the legacy of the legendary designer with his latest collection. Vaccarello’s Fall 2024 offering draws inspiration from Saint Laurent’s masterful use of lace, lingerie, and the languid silhouettes of the 1920s and 1930s, reimagining these elements for a modern audience. He achieves this by juxtaposing delicate fabrics with bold outerwear, creating a compelling tension between fragility and strength.
The collection is anchored by a series of statement-making outerwear pieces, including weathered leather coats, blousons, and belted utility jackets. These pieces often feature exaggerated shoulders, biker snaps, and zippers, adding a touch of rebelliousness to the overall aesthetic. The iconic le smoking suit also makes an appearance, with one particularly captivating iteration featuring a tuxedo jacket faced with intricate lace. This play on contrasts extends beyond the outerwear, with lace appearing in unexpected places, such as a peignoir-like trench coat.
Vaccarello’s collection draws inspiration from the winter 2024 collection, which featured sheer stocking dressing paired with faux furs. This cinematic approach is echoed in the Fall 2024 collection, where the use of gauze-y draped bodysuits and pencil skirts alongside faux fur accents creates a sense of both glamour and rebellion. The emphasis on lingerie-inspired pieces is further amplified through the use of richly detailed black lace hose, a classic Parisian touch that adds a playful and undeniably chic element to the collection.
The dominant silhouette of the collection is lean and flowing, embodied in lace, satin, and a muted color palette that moves from classic black to blush pink, pebble grey, rose tinged with taupe, and a shimmering brown. The collection pays homage to the glamorous era of screen sirens with its collection of satiny long dresses, sinuous slip dresses, and a new iteration of the jumpsuit crafted from a skinny-strapped lace-edged camisole. These pieces are often adorned with stacks of chunky bangles and pointy, sculpted satin shoes, adding a touch of vintage flair.
Overall, Vaccarello’s Fall 2024 collection for Yves Saint Laurent is a testament to his ability to balance delicacy and strength, creating a collection that is both alluring and wearable. The clothes are designed to move with the wearer, offering a sense of freedom and effortless sophistication. Vaccarello expertly blends elements of past and present, resulting in a collection that is both timeless and relevant, embodying the enduring spirit of Yves Saint Laurent.
