This year, Beyoncé rode into new frontiers with her surprise country album, *Cowboy Carter*. The world was already in the grip of Swiftie fever, who by then, had been touring Eras for a full year. And now, with Shania Twain performing headline shows at Glasto and BST, are you really a music fan if you don’t own a cowboy hat and a pair of sparkly boots?
Beyoncé might famously be from Texas, but don’t think you have to head to the Lone Star state to live out your yee-haw dreams. In fact, the superstar is a fan of Scottsdale in Arizona, one of the USA’s best-kept secrets, and where Beyoncé and Jay-Z honeymooned. Sat in a serendipitous spot in the Sonoran Desert east of Phoenix and hugged by golden-glow mountains, this subtly stylish city stands out from its surroundings like a couture frock at the rodeo, yet feels exactly where it’s supposed to be.
Scottsdale has long been a sanctuary for the Hollywood elite, with stars like Marilyn Monroe and Clarke Gable escaping to the serenity of this desert since the 1950s. As a result, Scottsdale is rich with beautiful architecture, luxury spas, and one of the greatest foodie scenes in the USA. This sub-tropical desert hideaway also benefits from 330 sunny days every year, so it’s fair to say, this western town was dealt a good hand.
So, while this ain’t Texas, I headed to Scottsdale to see just what all the fuss was about. Tucked away in a $2000-per-night casita on the majestic Camelback Mountain, is where Bey and Jay stayed during their honeymoon back in 2008. For many, budget doesn’t allow for such a premium perch, although a room at the iconic Mountain Shadows Resort at the foot of the mountain is a fair compromise. This hotel, in aptly named Paradise Valley, originally opened in 1959 and somehow, the sleek mid-century design flows into the 1.5 billion-year-old landscape like a master plan.
When it comes to exploring, if you’re curious of cowboy culture, Scottsdale Old Town is a good place to start. Saloon-style buildings with independent shops, restaurants, and bars serve up a fabulous dose of western kitsch. There is even a stagecoach-style tavern with live music called the Rusty Spur, open all day for a whisky and a warble.
However, Scottsdale’s great outdoors is what sets it apart from anywhere else in the world. In cowboy country, the best way to explore is on horseback, so I take a guided trail ride with Saguaro Lake Guest Ranch through the Tonto National Forest. From afar, the Sonoran Desert looks vast and baron, but close up the landscape surprises with a kaleidoscope of color from vibrant desert plants. A 100-year-old Saguaro Cactus standing strong and proud is decorated with dainty white flowers. Perhaps most surprising is the sight of water flowing in the Lower Salt River. From the highest point on horseback, we could see the 200-mile long waterway as it weaves through the arid plains.
Later, we swap the saddle for a kayak with Arizona Outback Adventures. Here, you literally go with the flow as the current carries you downhill past towering red cliffs and lush green riverbanks with a dash of yellow from the Palo Yerde trees. There’s a flurry of activity in the woodland. Between the branches, I see a flash of black and grey before a band of wild horses emerge, strolling along the water’s edge. I pause in stunned silence, hearing only the light breeze and the water lapping at the mangroves. For a rare moment, before they spotted us and disappeared back into their forest camouflage, it was other-worldly.
From striking wall murals to native American art, the city is as colorful as the radiant desert that surrounds it. Lunch at Diego Pops is no exception. Brussel Sprout nachos were a first for me, but this playful take on your nan’s favorite greens was a hit. Another great spot for lunch is The Mission Kierland, with a modern Latin-American menu by award-winning local chef Matt Carter (no relation to the Carters, that we know of).
Kierland Commons is another area of Scottsdale with its own personality, where the outdoors and exceptional weather are utilized to beautiful effect. You can take an urban tour of Scottsdale on a guided e-bike tour with Segway of Scottsdale on a designated bike path known as the Greenbelt.
For my final few nights, I checked into the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess, a 65-acre luxury resort that is a legendary with locals, especially at Christmas where the resort is transformed into a magical winter wonderland. And no, it doesn’t snow in Scottsdale, where the temperature rarely dips below 24oC. This is the kind of place you check into and stick around to enjoy, which includes six outdoor pools and a luxury spa. We dined at La Hacienda, a fantastic restaurant within the resort that serves creative and beautifully-presented Mexican food. Not to mention 200 varieties of tequila and an in-house ‘Tequila Goddess’ to talk you through them. Toasting with tequila seemed a fitting way to end my stay in this sanctuary of eternal summer.
But, I had one last stop to really showcase the spectacle of Scottsdale. It was still dark at 5am when I joined Hot Air Expeditions to get a look at the city, the desert, and the mountains all at once from the sky. At first light, the warm breeze brushed my skin as our colossal hot air balloon rose along with the sunset. If Beyoncé inspires you to do anything, it should be to come here. As the desert turns pink and then orange under a dizzying sunrise, it’s clear the streets under me would soon be blessed with another day of sun.
What does the week have in store? Your tarot horoscope reading for July 14 to July 21. I might go back for my honeymoon. What a place to be crazy in love. Seven nights at Mountain Shadows Resort, with direct economy flights on British Airways to Phoenix, £1,878pp (flying September 7-14). Find out more at experiencescottsdale.com.
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