Buccellati: The Art of Gold in Jewellery

Buccellati, a Milanese jeweller founded in 1919, has achieved iconic status through its unwavering commitment to the art of goldsmithing. The brand’s signature style lies not just in design elements but in its unparalleled craftsmanship, rooted in techniques that date back to the Renaissance. Buccellati’s artisans employ a range of engraving techniques to create intricate textures and patterns on gold surfaces. The brand’s Macri collection exemplifies this artistry, where gold is imbued with the texture and finish of silk fabrics through the rigato engraving technique, creating the illusion of textiles. Each Macri piece boasts at least 20,000 individual engravings, requiring exceptional skill and precision.

Diamonds are incorporated into the Macri designs, not through conventional prong or channel settings but via carving methods that create star-shaped rosettes. Modellato engraving sculpts raised rosettes, while ornato engraving carves the detail directly into the gold. The Tulle collection, inspired by Venetian lace, showcases openworked net-like structures meticulously carved into gold plates. This intricate technique involves creating radial or honeycomb patterns, with borders of gold set with diamonds and precious gems.

Buccellati’s dedication to these traditional goldsmithing techniques sets it apart in the jewellery world. The brand’s meticulous attention to detail and adherence to time-honoured crafts result in jewels that transcend mere adornment, becoming wearable works of art. The brand remains a family-owned enterprise, with third-generation creative director Andrea Buccellati and his daughter Lucrezia guiding its creative vision. This continuity was showcased in a recent exhibition in Venice, featuring butterfly brooches designed by four generations of the Buccellati family, highlighting the evolution of styles while maintaining the core essence of the brand’s craftsmanship.

Today, Buccellati continues to innovate within the realm of traditional goldsmithing, preserving the legacy of its founding family’s artistry. The brand’s exquisite jewels remain highly sought after by collectors and connoisseurs who appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship that have made Buccellati an enduring icon in the world of luxury jewellery.

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