The Delicate Art of Simplicity: A Conversation with Sylvie Legastelois on Chanel’s New Lipstick

In a conversation with actor Miyazawa Hio, Sylvie Legastelois, Chanel’s Global Creative Director of Makeup, delves into the design philosophy behind the new ‘Rouge Allure L’Extrait’ lipstick. The conversation touches on the delicate balance of simplicity and luxury that defines Chanel’s approach to design, highlighting the intricate craftsmanship that brings this philosophy to life.

Miyazawa, an admirer of art since his student days, inquires about Legastelois’s artistic preferences. Legastelois shares her affinity for modern art, particularly the works of Mark Rothko, and architecture, specifically the minimalist designs of Tadao Ando, where classic and modern elements seamlessly blend.

This conversation segues into the essence of Chanel’s design philosophy: simplicity. Legastelois emphasizes that simplicity in Chanel’s products goes beyond mere ease; it’s a deliberate choice that underscores the complexity and craftsmanship inherent in their creation.

The conversation then turns to the ‘Rouge Allure L’Extrait’ lipstick’s packaging, a testament to this philosophy. Legastelois explains that the goal was to create a lipstick that embodies the ultimate luxury, like a precious jewel. This ambition led to the use of glass, a noble material, combined with metal, to evoke the legendary mirrored spiral staircase in Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment. This design, Legastelois asserts, draws inspiration from the heart of the Chanel brand.

The development of this packaging was a journey that spanned four years, filled with experimentation and refinement. The initial design, with its all-gold finish, didn’t quite capture the desired image of the mirrored staircase. The team ultimately decided on a silver body with double gold rings, achieving the desired effect.

The glass used in the case is exceptionally thin, presenting a significant manufacturing challenge. The precise fit of the metal ring, much like a diamond setting in a ring, is equally demanding. Legastelois notes that glass is a living material, difficult to manipulate to exact dimensions, unlike metal, which is more malleable.

The satisfying sound of the case opening and closing is another testament to the attention to detail. This signature sound was achieved by incorporating magnets into the case, demonstrating Chanel’s commitment to understated luxury, where the finer details reveal the true craftsmanship.

Legastelois expresses her profound fascination with glass craft. She considers it an industry where artisanal skill shines, creating a sense of wonder. She emphasizes the human element that sets glasswork apart from purely mechanical processes. While glassworkers utilize machines, human oversight and intervention are crucial to the final product’s quality.

Legastelois concludes by highlighting the Japanese company responsible for crafting the intricate glass for the lipstick, expressing her pride in their expertise. The conversation ends on a note of anticipation, promising a deeper exploration of the driving force behind Chanel’s commitment to excellence in the upcoming second part of the interview.

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